The Flinders Ranges

Via a forty one kilometre scenic drive from Port Augusta (see EyrePeninsula), the charming old railway town of Quorn lies in the foothills of the colourful South Flinders Ranges. Apart from it's art galleries and the classic 19th century buildings which still line the streets, Quorn is best known for its vintage train which travels a 33 kilometre loop through the picturesque Pichi Richi Pass. The train operates between April and October, and leaves from the old stationon the edge of town.
Heading north-east of Quorn, the highway passes through the flat, hot,and arid landscape which the early settlers of the region found so unrelenting and inhospitable. Testament to this is the scattering of once grand homesteads lying by the roadside, now known as the Kanyaka Ruins. The ruins are sign posted as historical relics, and provide some interesting stopping points on the 105 kilometre journey to Hawker.
Hawker is a laid back outback town firmly established on the tourist trail as the gateway to the fabulous Flinders Ranges National Park. The 95 000 hectare park's most famous and dominant feature is Wilpena Pound, a enormous natural amphitheatre ringed by colossal,multi-coloured cliffs which change shade as the sun crosses the sky.
The walls rise to a sheer 500 metres high in places, the only entrance into thePound is via a narrow gap, patiently carved by the Wilpena Creek over the past 100 million years. Once on the inside, the vegetated basin which recedes gently up to the surrounding peaks, creates the perfect wildlife sanctuary and provides the home for several species of kangaroos, wallabies, and parrots as well as plenty of lizards, emus, and circling wedge-tailed eagles.
All walks into the Pound begin at the tiny settlement of Wilpena,which consists of the helpful visitors centre, the Wilpena Pound Resort, a camping ground, and the area's only petrol station. Just 52 kilometres away, Hawker is a popular base for explorations as well, offering a larger (and cheaper) range of accommodation and more places to eat.
Travelling north of Hawker on Highway 83, the road passes by some morehistorical ruins on it's 89 kilometre passage to the miniscule town ofParachilna. After having a refreshing drink and a hearty meal atthe town's great outback pub, most visitors to the area then detour ofthe highway and head easttowards Blinman. Blinman provides the best access to the fantastic limestone features like The Great Wall of China, encompassed in the northern expanses of the Flinders Ranges National Park. Accommodation here consists of another top pub, as well a number of sheep stations which open their shearers quarters up for travellers (see Farmstays in Accommodation).This is a top way to experience the essence of the Australian outback,and some of the stations even offer guided tours and camel safaris.
The 32 kilometre unsealed road (usually OK for conventional vehicles) winding from Parachilna to Blinman makes the detour worthwhile in itself. The road passes through the majestic Parachilna Gorge, whichhas become the superb natural backdrop for the Angorichina Tourist Village. The village provides the starting point for the exciting hike to the spring fed Blinman Pools, as well as general store, petrol, anda good variety of accommodation.
Back on Highway 83 and 67 kilometres north of Parachilna is thesurprisingly verdant mining town of Leigh Creek. Freshly established in 1980, the town's landscaped gardens create a dramaticcontrast to the surrounding arid countryside, and give the town aunique outback feel. Leigh Creek produces over 40 percent of thestate's coal, and it's main attraction is the huge open cut mine ofwhich complimentary tours are available. Just north of town, thosetravelling in a 4WD can head east towards the very remote Gammon RangesNational Park and the Arkaroola Resort.
34 kilometres north of the turn-off to Arkaroola, the tiny settlementof Lyndhurst marks the point where the Strzelecki Track headsnorth-east for the tiny outpost of Innamincka (near the Queensland Border), and where the Oodnadatta Track begins it's long overland journey to the centre of the South Australian Outback. Marree isthe first sign of life on the Oodnadatta Track, lying 79 kilometres from Lyndhurst in the middle of the region's desolate saltbush country.Until recently, Marree was best known as the end of the legendarycattle route, the Birdville Track. As recently as the 1960's, Queensland stockman used to drive their cattle for over 1000 kilometresfor loading at Marree's railway station. Today, the tiny township hasgained notoriety from the Marree Man, an enormous outline of an Aboriginal warrior plowed anonymously into the salty desert plain.
Following the Oodnadatta Track beyond Marree, it's 200 kilometres tothe services at William Creek, and then another 205 kilometres toOodnadatta (see adjacent section). The road's usually OK for conventional vehicles, but it's always a good idea to gather some localknowledge before heading out.